When Old Friends Visit: Two Brits and Albania

                     "It is one of the blessings of old friends that you can afford to be stupid with them."                           Ralph Waldo Emerson 

          A few weeks ago I had some friends that I know from my time in Korea visit from England. They're British not Korean and I greatly respect their attitudes, their open mindedness and resilience.  I'd seen them once before when they came through Nashville for a wedding in Charleston but that was years ago. Since then they both had contracted cancer, he had to have a bone marrow transplant, and her cervical, so seeing them was extra special as they were given the green light to travel abroad. They loved their time in Ohrid and I loved that they had a rental car so we wouldn't have to take the buses!! We visited the same places when my family visited which they loved just as much. We also had a wonderful dinner with my host family and thanks to Daniella, my host mother, knowing English we were really able to communicate together. Her with Maggie and Graham with Goce while I translated. 

Appreciating Sv. Jovan at Kaneo

Graham and I wore matching colors by accident during his entire visit. 

Standing at Czar Samuil's fortress.

Being tourists.

I found this little guy and named him Raphael for his smartass attitude. 

This is what I want to road trip in, a 1970's Toyota Land Crusier. 

Hanging out at home. 

          Next, we packed our bags, drove to Albania and it's capital Tirana. After hearing so many negative comments made by Macedonians I was prepared for a dirty country and cold-blooded people. I was immediately proven wrong. As soon as we had crossed the border and Ohrid Lake disappeared into our rearview mirror, the road widened, it was clean, though unlined, and the houses were completely built.  Also, there were no old cars from the Yugoslavia era, they were all from Western Europe, mostly Germany. The drive to Tirana was beautiful and quick only taking 2 hours.  As you can see in the pictures it was spectacular, clean, organized and progressive. The people were friendly, didn't stare, and most people knew English. I immediately felt comfortable there.  We had a wonderful time, took in all the sites, went to the EuroZone to watch the European soccer matches, enjoyed some bbq and just relaxed. 

Ready to cross the border. 

Even though we were only 30 minutes from Ohrid, the landscape was much different. 

One of the many old railway bridges left from the communist regime. 

Standard couple picture. 

On the left is the Tirana Clock Tower with Haji Et'hem Bey's Mosque on the right. 

Skanderbeg's Statue. 

Yes the government buildings have a green space on the roof.

The Skanderbeg Square was bustling with activity day and night.

You could see the entire city from the Clock Tower. 

Scoping out the clock tower.

Again, Haji Et'hem Bey's Mosque. 

Graham explaining more about our future Europe road trip that we'll take in one of his VW vehicles. 

Our apartment was huge, near the center and very cheap.

Mmmmm soccer, meat and beer. 

It was a solid place to get our bearings for the night.

A Full Moon rising over one of the city's ancient walls.

The Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral was completed in 2012  and was built on land returned to the Church as compensation for the old cathedral that was destroyed by the communist regime. 

Chilling at our favorite place in Tirana, Hemingway's. 

Graham was quite excited to find London Pride. 

The history of Albania was something I didn't know a lot about but I came away with three points. First, they have always had a strong ethnic and linguistic identity. Second, the post WWII dictatorship that ruled for 50 years was Stalinesque in it's brutality and oppression.  Albanians despise that period of their history and do not look back on it with nostalgia. Third, following the second point they only want two things; To join the EU and to do it as fast as possible. Moreover, they're working as hard not only on their infrastructure but their social ideas too.  Everyone was dressed in Western clothes and the people were friendly not only to one another but to us tourists as well. 

Selfie time. 

Here's Skanderbeg Square from the opposite side of my earlier pictures.

I was really impressed with how the building behind this structure was designed to enhance the space. Notice that the man on the left is admiring it as well. 

It was blue shirt day for Graham and I.

Lots of retired men were out playing chess, tabla or cards. 

The Tanner's Bridge is an 18th century Ottoman period stone footbridge. The Lana river was rerouted in the 1930's so the bridge was neglected. It was renovated in the 1990's and is now a pedestrian shortcut. 

Here Graham is in-front of the Pyramid of Tirana. Designed by the Communist leader Enver Hoxha daughter and son-in-law, it's now a dilapidated relic.

One of the broad streets criss crossing through Tirana.

There are thousands of these concrete bunkers around the country yet their primary purpose during the communist regime wasn't to prevent invasions but to keep it's citizens from leaving. 

"The only good system is a sound system."

Standing outside the EuroZone. 

It had not one but two massive high quality screens for the soccer matches.

Of course Graham and I hung out with Mr. Daniels for a minute. 

While exploring the park we found a memorial to the British Commonwealth soldiers that died during WWII in Albania.

This was the memorial for the Nazi soldiers. Again, the people do not gloss over the history of their country. 

Once outside the center we discovered that many buildings were colorfully decorated. This was done by the former mayor Edi Rama, a trained artist. 

This wonderful lady was the store owner near our apartment. She was a ball of energy and we had fun figuring out what we wanted to buy and how much it all cost. Right after this was taken she kissed me on both cheeks. 

Heading into the FanZone for the night game. 

It filled up despite Albania not playing and had a relaxed atmosphere.

Afterwards we walked around to check out the venders.

They were also having a Ms. Tirana beauty contest. 

Albanian money, called "Lek". 

Chilling at our favorite coffee shop.

You better believe I had a brownie for breakfast. 

This was the first of several Albanian wedding parties we saw. 

I have no idea what the name of this old fort was, but it looked very cool.

There were waterfalls from the previous nights rain in the hills behind the house.

Ohrid Lake from Albania.

One last pint together before we went our separate ways.

          We were a bit disappointed to leave Tirana but it was a great weekend visit. I'll be returning to Albania soon, I've checked out their beaches and they look spectacular.  I was also bummed to see Maggie and Graham leave but that just gives me a nice incentive to visit them in England. 

Visiting home: Family, Friends, Food and A Wedding.

"Rocky Top you'll always be home sweet home to me.."

          Obviously, one of the toughest parts about serving in the Peace Corps is being away from home. I've been fortunate to have made a home here in Macedonia but in May I went back to my Tennessee home to visit family, friends and be in one of my best friends wedding. 

          Going back was something that I was really looking forward to but it was a whirlwind packing, celebrating Easter in Ohrid and then waiting on my flights. Amazingly, during my trans-atlantic flight I didn't have anyone sitting next to me. What a great omen. Yet the most wonderful feeling was sitting at the gate waiting for my flight to Nashville and listening to the people next to me talk in that Tennessee drawl. Oh how it warmed my heart to hear my native tongue again. 

          However it wasn't a slow vacation. I ran around East TN visiting friends, prepped for the wedding, watched movies, hung out with the family, gave two presentations about being a PCV in Macedonia and ate ribs, ice cream and hamburgers. It was glorious. 

The view of Northern Tennessee before landing. 

Nashville might be a boom town but downtown seems to be staying the same.

I popped into my old work for dinner. 

Both of these ladies listened to me talk about Peace Corps, the Azerbaijan debacle and then Macedonia for months so it was only fair we took some selfies. I was bummed to miss out on practicing with the Nashville Roo's for a night but there just wasn't time. 

Mom's homemade pumpkin muffins.

Finally met up with Peddi.

One of my requirements for my coworkers was to take pictures of property and things back home.   I felt as if I was a weird tourist because I took pictures of my neighborhood, Target, grocery stores, parking lots, malls, the interior of my middle school etc. 

Mmmmm sushi. 

Where my heart of hearts is:  The University of Tennessee.

Neyland Stadium. 

Ribs, need I say more. 

Enjoying dinner with family. 

Hanging out at Market Square.

So most of you know that one of my coworkers had these shirts made for my brother and I. However, Landon and I bought the same Mother's Day card, without knowing it, too. 

Gary laughed while manning the grill. 

Following Mother's Day I gave a presentation on being a Peace Corps Volunteer in Macedonia at my former middle school. I was a bit nervous that I wasn't going to entertain 150+ 8th graders so I made sure to show pictures of myself as an eight grader so it was relatable. 

My presentation was part of a series that my former math teacher had created. She wanted to have alumni share their experiences so her students could be inspired about life beyond school.  

What the students enjoyed most was hearing their names in Macedonian. 

Pops and I enjoyed road tripping together, and having our normal multifacated conversations, around East TN. 

The Appalachia's are a beautiful place. 

My man J. Koontz and I. This guy was the first to tell me to get moving and start applying for the Peace Corps. 

He, his hilarious wife and I met up at our favorite dive bar for beer and horseshoes. 

More good people, Markie and Josh.

Wedding Weekend

          Now one of the main reasons I came back home was to be in Zack's wedding. I was there when he and his fiancee first met so it was nice to be there when they tied the knot. Furthermore, I really enjoyed catching up with the guys in his wedding party. I've been around each of them but not together in a group. We made the most of our time together.

Handsome we are. 

Serious we're not. 

Thanks to my Ohrid tailor my suit fit like a glove.

You couldn't have asked for a better venue.

Walking the line and then waiting for pictures. 

"Dressing well is a form of good manners." Tom Ford

Bored. 

More waiting for group pictures. 

An excellent group shot. 

A pre-wedding beer. 

Then it was time for the ceremony. I felt honored to have been a part of it.

One of the best things about the wedding was catching up with so many people that I hadn't seen in years.

Dinner before the speeches of which I was the first to go.

Zack and Jess thanked everyone for coming and then we danced. A lot. 

Not every picture is perfect, I dig it.

A happy bride and groom. 

Reverse Culture Shock/Observations

          Now to be completely honest I didn't have major reverse culture shock. There were little things, no one smoked inside, the roads were broad and clean, the people much bigger than in the Balkans but I settled right back into it all after a few days. However, I did drive whenever I could because damn I missed driving.  It was also great being able to call people immediately on a phone, not wait for wifi or account for the time zone difference. That was the thing I enjoyed the most. 

          I also noticed that I took the time to chat with people. For example, I was waiting for Peddi to get off work so I grabbed a coffee at, yes, Starbucks. Not only was it way overpriced but I didn't really know what to order so I asked the cashier what was his favorite drink. He shook his head and then it registered that I was actually asking him his opinion. So we talked about the drinks, how his day was going and what not. I ordered the caramel coffee but he gave me a  small discount for simply chatting with him. This happened over and over to me in restaurants, bars, cafes you name it. It seems people, even in the polite South, have forgotten to chat with their acquaintances. 

          Lastly,  I was greatly impressed with the speed of the internet. I'd forgotten how fast, intuitive and seamless it is. I was also surprised by all of the inside jokes people had from their snapchats, meme's and whatever was the "issue of the day/week". That isn't to say those things don't exist in Macedonia it's just that not everyone has a smartphone so it's done more face to face. (Think America circa 2004).

          Finishing up, going home was wonderful. I was able to see many friends, family and enjoy delicious grub. It was also special being in Peddi's wedding. Yet the trip crystallized much for me. Following my return from living in South Korea I was adrift for a while and wasn't prepared for reintegrating into American life.  Now, I know how long of a process that will be. So I applied and was granted approval for a six month extension to my original contract. Now, I'll be in Macedonia until May 2017. This will give me time to finish up my projects at work and in my community. It will also give me time to apply and interview for work BEFORE returning home so I'm not adrift like I was when I returned from South Korea.

          Next up, I had two friends that I'd made in South Korea visit me here in Macedonia. We also went to Tirana, Albania but that's a story for my next post. Until then, cao.